Not the daily public transport kind, but where the train is part of the journey, not just a way of getting somewhere.
Give me a dining carriage, a glass of champagne and an ever-evolving view and I’m set!
High on my bucket list was The Ghan. The famed Australian train that will take you from Darwin to Adelaide (or vice versa) is celebrating her 95th birthday.
So settle in, as we take a trip through the heart of Australia the way it was meant to be seen.
The train
The Ghan, named after Afghan cameleers who were the backbone of the Red Centre more than 150 years ago, is an almost-kilometre-long icon of Australian rail.
With up to 41 carriages, plus locomotives, it can take 300 passengers and 40 crew. Depending on the train size, there are up to eight lounge and dining carts.
Cabins range from Gold to Platinum with some variations in between. We got to experience two cabins on our almost 3000km journey from Darwin to Adelaide.
All aboard!
The route
One of the best things about The Ghan is the route you take through the great Aussie outback, to places you might normally never get to visit.
From the delights of Katherine Gorge to Alice Springs and the underground wonders of Coober Pedy, this is a three-night-four-day journey through the red dirt and beating heart of Australia.
The boarding
Boarding The Ghan is a highly choreographed experience. We were picked up from our Darwin hotel and bussed to the official check-in location at the Darwin Convention Centre.
Because The Ghan is so big, it can’t rock up into the middle of Darwin. So instead, you check your bags in here and have breakfast, before being taken to Darwin Rail Terminal.
The first sight of this silver icon is so exciting. You can’t wait to climb the small set of stairs and head down the wood-panelled corridor to find your room.
The cabin
Gold cabins are compact but cozy. In the Gold Twin cabins, you’ve got a lounge that converts into bunk beds, a small bathroom with a shower and a decent-sized window to watch the Aussie outback go by. There are also Gold Single and Gold Premium cabins available.
Then there are the Platinum cabins. These cost a little more and you can easily see why.
There’s a full-size ensuite, a more spacious cabin, double or twin beds (that staff will convert to lounges during the day) and a huge window to take in the ever-changing view.
We opted to keep our beds down some days so we could literally lie there and watch the scenery go by. I highly recommend this!
The dining
The Ghan is as much about the culinary journey as it is about the journey itself. The team works closely with local suppliers and farmers to deliver an outback-inspired menu throughout your journey.
You’ll indulge in breakfast, two-course lunches and three-course dinners, along with an extensive wine list.
While in Gold tier we dined in the Queen Adelaide Restaurant for breakfast and dinner. The crocodile dumplings were top of my list of favourites. The restaurant has a warm feeling of yesteryear and the staff are to be applauded for how they negotiated the narrow hallways with plates, drinks and a never-ending stream of hungry passengers.
When we upgraded, we dined in the Platinum Club, a combined dining and lounge carriage. The food offering is similar to Gold Tier, but elevated with more courses and premium wines. I am still raving about the pudding with white chocolate sauce they brought out, along with a surprise birthday cake for the birthday I celebrated onboard.
One of my favourite things in this Club was having breakfast in our bathrobes on the last day onboard. There is something to be said for sipping mimosas in your robe!
Staff will also take your evening order for a nightcap that you’ll find waiting in your room each evening. Baileys in bed? Don’t mind if I do!
The best part
The Outback Explorers Lounge. This was my favourite place on the train. A relaxed bar/lounge area, it’s the heart and soul of what The Ghan is all about – meeting people with a shared love of travel. The age gap melts away as you meet people from all around the globe, excited to hear about where you’re from and where you’re going, as they are to share their journeys with you.
We met people from Greece, New York, London, as well as new friends from Sydney.
So grab a drink (champagne, Aperol, or whatever takes your fancy) and strike up a conversation with the person next to you. It’s such a wonderful experience.
The off-train experiences
Included as part of The Ghan journey are three days’ worth of adventures, each with multiple offerings. In Katherine, we opted for the Nitmuluk Gorge cruise. This is a truly magical place. Highly recommended and very popular on our tour.
In Alice Springs, we pretended to be energetic and went for the Alice by E-Bike tour around town, while in Coober Pedy, we chose the Explore Coober Pedy option where we experienced the town’s famous underground dwellings and famous opals.
Frankly, if you haven’t had Happy Birthday sung to you by 50 people in an underground restaurant, have you even lived?
The staff
Before we pull into the station, a word on the staff. A good team can make or break a business and The Ghan has got some of the best in the business.
From our barman Troy in the Explorers Lounge, to Michelle our Platinum Club host, we were treated like more than just a passenger. You feel important. You feel like you belong. And that is a feeling you can’t buy.
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